|aThe science of waves and surfboards /|cLisa Steele MacDonald.
|aHuntington Beach, CA :|bTeacher Created Materials,|c.
|a32 p. :|bcol. ill. ;|c23 cm.
|a"Smithsonian" -- Cover.
|aBeing a great surfer requires more than skill and instinct. It's a sport that relies on science! Without buoyancy, surfers would sink. Without acceleration, they could not travel the length of a wave. Science also plays a role in how surfboards are designed. The history of surfing is a lesson of progress in science.